Thursday, 29 June 2017

Day 4 Galway-Maams Cross-a whole load of nothing and wind-Leenaun-Hidden Valley-Westport










Stats: 78.5miles, 6hours 37 in the saddle, 3021 ft climbing, average speed 11.9mph 2874 calories.

Well that was an experience! Although the route didn't look too bad, the weather forecast was one every cyclist dreads. We would be riding into a 20-30mph headwind for 65 of the 78 miles on today's stage and although only one medium climb with 10 miles to go it would be lumpy for most of the rest.

With clowning about kept to a minimum this morning we had breakfast dispatched by 8.15, although they had no porridge so already we were on the back foot. Getting the bikes from the downstairs abandoned bar were we were told we could keep them overnight, a minimum of faffage from Kieran who wanted to raise his seat a bit to see if he could get rid of the pain in his knee and we were off under leaden skies around the busy one way system around Galway.

The first 8 miles were heading directly west along the famous Galway Bay and if we looked hard enough you could see where we'd started yesterday in Spanish Point! Heading west along the R336 it was horribly busy and quite narrow so it was into team pursuit mode to try and get this bit over with. Little did we know this was as good as it was going to get today, as although we had a strong wind on our right hand side, it was copeable and we'd soon done the 13 or so miles to the turn off which would lead us across the Connemara national park just after the airport. Right before the turning we caught up with and had a chat with an elderly German couple who were also on a cycling "holiday" and enjoying the weather much the same as we were!

As we turned the corner following the R336 it hit us like a punch in the face. I was on the front and from an average speed of 15mph it immediately dropped to just under 10. It was horrible. We battled on for another 5 miles with everybody's turn on the front getting shorter and shorter until we saw a sign for Deely's cafe next left and made an executive decision to stop early for a coffee break and to put some more clothes on as the temperature was dropping as the wind was getting stronger. 2 miles down the side road there was still no sign of Deely's cafe as we went past a Spar. umming and ahhhing about whether to stay there we pressed on for another 100 yards and saw it in the distance so carried on to find, of course, it was closed! Back to the Spar for some Coffee from a machine and some Wagon Wheels and a sit-rep. Kieran had spent some time in this part of the world and he had stressed how barren and full of nothing it was and with the headwind there would be no protection. We decided not to cock about as it wouldn't be funny to be left on your own out here and set off into a disciplined 1 mile at the front then drop to the back routine. See we can act like adults when the situation demands it!

The next 22 miles took us over 2 hours with only the German couple to wave to as we went past and me falling into a big during a toilet stop to break up the monotony of either staring at your own front wheel spindle while on the front or the rear mech of whoever you were as close as possible behind in the other 3 positions. We were heading for the mountain range in the distance but them seemed to be getting further away not closer with every peddle stroke. Finally we came up to the crossroads at Maams Cross and the Peacock hotel. It was the only place we could get anything to eat at for the next 15 miles until we reached Leenaun so we pulled off the R336 and went in to get warm and something to eat.

The chef turned out to be a bit of a character and although punctuating all his sentences with the f bomb explained he was a cyclist himself and on top of the soup and paninis donated a big pot of muscles FOC! He also told us how unlucky we were with the wind as the prevailing winds are usually South easterly. He wasn't the first or the last to mention it today!

Suitably filled up it was back on it and out into the strengthening wind. The 13 miles to Leenaun were horrendous. With only the guys in tractors cutting the peat to keep us company the mountains ever so slowly came into view. Turning left again meant we had a big crosswind for a few miles and being the pros (!) we are, started an echelon across the road to make it easier for the guys at the back, moving in for the very odd car that came our way. We were now climbing although you couldn't notice as the wind was keeping us to pretty much 9 mph everywhere. When we began to go back down the other side we couldn't break 12mph on a 5% gradient! At the bottom, Dec wanted a video of us coming down so we turned around and free wheeled up the hill! Madness!

Dropping down to Leeuan the scenery turned from barren to beautiful. As we stopped for some pictures and Kieran had a quick snooze on the wall, Dec wanted to take the shorter route to Westport down the really busy N59 which would shave 9 miles off. With a cry of "trust in the route!" He was outvoted and we cycled round the amazing beautiful inlet and with us now having the wind behind us for a couple of miles all was well again.Conleth and Kieran even had time to scare a few sheep out of the road ahead as it twisted up and down the side of the waters edge.

We then turned North again and the wind was back. However the unbelievable vista of the "Hidden Valley" was a sight to behold and lots of photos and videos were taken. From an ox bow lake to hanging valleys and waterfalls it had it all and it was completely and utterly deserted. To celebrate being just 15 miles from home, at last the team work began to disintegrate. Coming up to one of the small summits, just as Conleth was getting ready to launch, me and Kieran blocked the narrow single track road so he couldn't get past and Dec powered away to claim victory! Snarling and cursing, Conleth wouldn't get caught be the same trick again and as we approached the only major climb of the day off he went with Dec following in hot pursuit. Unbelievably for the first time in 4 days Conleth blew up and Dec crested what seemed to be the top to claim victory. Or so he thought. While he got out his phone to video us all trailing in his wake, I pointed out the top was still half a mile away and plodded on to the top to claim the real summit, as I pointed out to Declan when he finally got there by the line across the road saying KOM!

A lovely if very windy descent down the other side and it was under 10 miles to go as Dec pulled over for a gel (technically illegal under UCI rules but hey-Ho) and as we spun along he told me that there was no way we would be racing into Westport as 30 seconds later he and Conleth sped up and dissapered! Sticking with Kieran we decided to let them do what they want and we would just spin in. Until of course we got to the junction of the N59 and the fast road into Westport. With trees now on both sides in the road and at last some shelter we had a quick chat and decided we give it a quick go and see how we were feeling. With Kieran in full Jan Ulrich mode we bridged the gap nearly to Conleth as the lights went out for Kieran and he dropped back. I caught up with Conleth and eased past and I could see Dec just up the road. There was only 2 miles to go but I was sure I could catch him until I then realised I'd just passed the sign for Westport! Who puts the town sign 2 miles out of the town centre?! He'd won fair and square this time ( if you disregard the illegal gel......) and we all rolled into Westport absolutely done in and slightly deaf from the wind.

As we hadn't really had anything to eat since the muscles at Maam Cross, we decided that before we found the youth hostel we were staying in tonight a cup of coffee and cake were in order as we sat there waiting for the tingling from the wind to stop. I have had tougher days on a bike, but not many and despite a bit of dicking about at the end we'd made it as easy as we could have by behaving like adults and working as a team. I'm sure there's a lesson to be learned somewhere I think.....!

It's the longest day tomorrow, knocking on for 115 miles and the wind is to be the same. Gulp! We're going to make our own breakfast and try and get on the road for 7.30. Wish us luck!

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