Day 5 Westport-Castlebar-Foxton-Kieran's Uncle Martin and Auntie Maura's-Aclare-Dromahair-Lough Glenade-Donegal Town

Stats: 111.6miles, 9hours 3mins in the saddle, average speed of 12.3 mph, 5410 ft climbing, 3224 calories.

Day 5 done and looking back on the route today on a map on a postcard in the shop after our tea it looks like a stupidly long way to cycle! We always knew it would be a tough day, and the way you mentally prepare for these things, it's never as tough as you think! It's the days like yesterday which you think will be relatively straight forward but then turn out not to be (I can still hear the wind now!) that really mess with the mind and I felt much better tonight than I did last night. As Chris Boardman once tellingly put it "it will always end!"

Knowing it was going to be a long old day and given we were staying at a youth hostel last night, we raided Supavalve to buy all their porridge pots and bananas on the way back from last nights meal and arranged with the guy at the hostel to get access to the kitchen at 7am, with the plan that we would get on the road by 8 at the latest. With the bunk beds divied up (me on the top as Dec's dodgy hips precluded him from using the ladders to get up!) it was lights out after Kieran came back from an hour at the pub with yet more members of his extended family.

Waking up at 6 to the banging, snoring and farting from 4 guys in a room smaller than the normal sized bathroom, not to mention the stench from fetid cycling gear and shoes, and aforementioned farting was something I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy! Stripping the beds, we ventured down for breakfast where early bird Conleth was being mother sorting out the porridge and toast. With Dec already having got the bikes out, it was a quick wash of the dishes and we were on the road at 7.45am. UNBELIEVABLE!

it wasn't all good news however, as the wind that dogged us yesterday was still there although in a slightly different direction so while not a straight headwind it was still causing some problems. Oh, and did I mention it was raining for a change?! With full wet weather gear we set off for Castlebar down some lovely unclassified roads, which although wet were very quiet and had the shelter of trees either side as the road looped up and down until we came to the T junction to the busy R311 for the 8 mile run into Castlebar. However another of the little joyous surprises you get on a big day on a bike was sitting off to our right, a lovely 2 lane, newly surfaced cycle path that ran right the way into Castlebar. Thank the EU for that! Kieran also pointed out as it was EU money that built it we should really ride on the right! And to top it off the sun came out!

Bombing in and then back out, the cycle path abruptly ended as we took the R310 out towards Pontoon. As it began to climb, the sun dissapered and it started to hammer it down. Stopping at the top of the hill we delved into our bags to put virtually all the clothing we had on as the temperature had plummeted to 8degrees. We agreed we would stop at Pontoon as Kieran new of a pub overlooking the lake we could take shelter in. We got there and it was closed and up for sale. The hotel 1 mile along the road, likewise. Bugger! Turning off the R310 onto the R318 past Lough Cullin, we stopped at the "beach" by the lake were Kieran used to go as a kid for a photo. One thing I have learned lots about this trip is the childhood holiday destinations of all 3 of my compatriots, all spoken with great fondness of basic holidays spent in the outdoors. To make up for it, I'm going to get them to cycle round Conwy in North Wales next year so I can bore them about mine!

With the rain still bouncing down, we made it to Foxford, found a pub serving coffe and tea and escaped out of the wet and wind. We'd done 21 miles, still 91 to go! With Kieran warning us about eating to much as we were due at his uncle Martins and auntie Maura's for an early lunch we just had time to get warm, then back out onto the unclassified roads for more swooping up and down on single track, traffic free cycling. 16 miles from Foxford, Kieran was showing me the house his mam was born in just before pulling into his uncle and aunties house. As with lunch back on day 2 at his aunties house the table was set and a feast of bread, ham, salad and ginger cake awaited! The hospitality we've had from everyone on the trip has been first rate and as we were leaving, his auntie Maura's gave us 20 euro for the charity, before a quick photo and back into the wind.

The rain had however stopped and we wouldn't see it again today as the clouds started to break and it began to warm up, as we carried on through Aclare and on towards our next stop in Collooney at the half way stage down the same unclassified quiet roads. Just before the village we had to stop a take a photograph of a massive model of a T-Rex just in a field by the side of the road! Only in Ireland etc, etc.....Riding into The very pretty village there was non one about and no cars. It was slightly odd and sparked the comment " have we missed the zombie apocalypse?!" Kieran meanwhile wanted me and Conleth to ride at the front in case there were Mexicans on the roofs of the houses in front taking potshots at the new sheriffs in town! Stopping for a banana and a drink we decided to push onto Dromahair where Declan had many happy memories from his childhood and was the nearest village to where his mam was born and was brought up. The 20 miles soon came and went, with a brilliant interlude of cycling down a completely overgrown farm track which we did just to here Dec chuntering on about staying on the main road, as did a lot of the gear we were wearing as the sun had come out properly and the wind had started to die down.

Finding a cafe, we ordered more paninis from the somewhat forgetful waitress and took stock of where we were and an estimated time of arrival. It was 3.30, we'd done 70 miles but still had 42 left to do and a lot of the climbing to get over. Dec phoned the B&B to let them know we would be there between 8&9 but we would be coming and set off round the beautiful Lough Gill and then a quick right and the biggest of the 2 large climbs on today's stage started. You'll notice the lack of messing about today, mainly because the unclassified roads we were on are not conducive to it, but also because there was an unwritten rule that today was tough and cocking about would only make it tougher! Thus Conleth just trundled off over the hill, waiting at each junction for us to catch up until after around 30 minutes of solid climbing we'd reached the top to enjoy the magnificent vista over the valley and the Lough below.

Taking a few photos it was off down the steep decsent with me leading the way. Nearing the bottom at near terminal speed of 40 mph, I didn't see a half dug drainage channel and my rear wheel smacked into it. Instantly the familiar death weave of a pinch flat puncture had me out of the seat and trying to get the bike slowed nice and gently, finding a lay by to pull into to change the inner tube. In the all for one and one for all spirt of the day, everyone stopped to help and within 15 minutes we had it changed and Kieran even managed to get one if the C02 canisters to work to blow up the tyre! It was still another set back though and as soon as we were going again, the second climb up to Lurganboy and up and over the valley started. Off went Conleth again stopping a videoing a "mock" sprint from me and Dec to the top, and a drop down the valley with  Glenade Lough on our right hand side. And what a valley it wasn't! Geography nerds like me and Conleth were stunned at the geology of the place, with special mention of the  massive stone perched on the outcrop at the top of the valley.

Down and up the valley, we finally turned off the unclassified roads and back on to the R280 for a very fast descent into Kinlough for our last quick stop of the day, 90 miles done 22 to go! Skirting Bundoran and the border with Northern Ireland we climbed up through the steep streets of Ballshannon and joined the very busy N15 for 8 scary miles before the route took us off on the side roads to Donegal Town. Predictably Dec started winging about we we weren't staying on the very dangerous, busy, N road into Donegal and predictably he got the reply to "trust the route!"

Things were getting uncomfortable now for everyone and Dec announced he defiantly wasn't going to sprint for the finish, on no siree! Conleth gave us permission to punch him in the face if he did, while Kieran was suffering in silence and if any of you know Kieran that is scary! Despite him and me agreeing a truce we still couldn't bring ourselves to trust the other one so it was with increasing pace we bombed down the cycle route down the side roads to the outskirts to Donegal, leaving Kieran and Conleth to support each other the last few miles. While we were both reassuring each other that we wouldn't be racing to the sign, especially not after 112 miles we couldn't bring ourselves to go one behind the other and instead rode side by side until we actually reached the town centre! There either wasn't a sign, or we'd missed it while keeping an eye on each other! Let's call it a (diss)honourable draw!

With Conleth and Kieran rocking round the square 2 minutes later while a beauty pageant took place on a large stage in the middle of the town square (only in Ireland etc.....!) it was time to congratulate each other on a job well done and find the B&B. It was 8.30 so in all we'd been on the road for more than 12 hours, but only 1 more day to go then it's over! We also got the good news that we've reached our target of £1500! Thank you all of you who have taken the time to donate, it does keep us going! Those who haven't there's still time, it would be great to get to 2 grand!
Just one final thing, Happy Birthday to Conleth's mum Mrs Kelly from her boy and all of us!

Day 4 Galway-Maams Cross-a whole load of nothing and wind-Leenaun-Hidden Valley-Westport

Stats: 78.5miles, 6hours 37 in the saddle, 3021 ft climbing, average speed 11.9mph 2874 calories.

Well that was an experience! Although the route didn't look too bad, the weather forecast was one every cyclist dreads. We would be riding into a 20-30mph headwind for 65 of the 78 miles on today's stage and although only one medium climb with 10 miles to go it would be lumpy for most of the rest.

With clowning about kept to a minimum this morning we had breakfast dispatched by 8.15, although they had no porridge so already we were on the back foot. Getting the bikes from the downstairs abandoned bar were we were told we could keep them overnight, a minimum of faffage from Kieran who wanted to raise his seat a bit to see if he could get rid of the pain in his knee and we were off under leaden skies around the busy one way system around Galway.

The first 8 miles were heading directly west along the famous Galway Bay and if we looked hard enough you could see where we'd started yesterday in Spanish Point! Heading west along the R336 it was horribly busy and quite narrow so it was into team pursuit mode to try and get this bit over with. Little did we know this was as good as it was going to get today, as although we had a strong wind on our right hand side, it was copeable and we'd soon done the 13 or so miles to the turn off which would lead us across the Connemara national park just after the airport. Right before the turning we caught up with and had a chat with an elderly German couple who were also on a cycling "holiday" and enjoying the weather much the same as we were!

As we turned the corner following the R336 it hit us like a punch in the face. I was on the front and from an average speed of 15mph it immediately dropped to just under 10. It was horrible. We battled on for another 5 miles with everybody's turn on the front getting shorter and shorter until we saw a sign for Deely's cafe next left and made an executive decision to stop early for a coffee break and to put some more clothes on as the temperature was dropping as the wind was getting stronger. 2 miles down the side road there was still no sign of Deely's cafe as we went past a Spar. umming and ahhhing about whether to stay there we pressed on for another 100 yards and saw it in the distance so carried on to find, of course, it was closed! Back to the Spar for some Coffee from a machine and some Wagon Wheels and a sit-rep. Kieran had spent some time in this part of the world and he had stressed how barren and full of nothing it was and with the headwind there would be no protection. We decided not to cock about as it wouldn't be funny to be left on your own out here and set off into a disciplined 1 mile at the front then drop to the back routine. See we can act like adults when the situation demands it!

The next 22 miles took us over 2 hours with only the German couple to wave to as we went past and me falling into a big during a toilet stop to break up the monotony of either staring at your own front wheel spindle while on the front or the rear mech of whoever you were as close as possible behind in the other 3 positions. We were heading for the mountain range in the distance but them seemed to be getting further away not closer with every peddle stroke. Finally we came up to the crossroads at Maams Cross and the Peacock hotel. It was the only place we could get anything to eat at for the next 15 miles until we reached Leenaun so we pulled off the R336 and went in to get warm and something to eat.

The chef turned out to be a bit of a character and although punctuating all his sentences with the f bomb explained he was a cyclist himself and on top of the soup and paninis donated a big pot of muscles FOC! He also told us how unlucky we were with the wind as the prevailing winds are usually South easterly. He wasn't the first or the last to mention it today!

Suitably filled up it was back on it and out into the strengthening wind. The 13 miles to Leenaun were horrendous. With only the guys in tractors cutting the peat to keep us company the mountains ever so slowly came into view. Turning left again meant we had a big crosswind for a few miles and being the pros (!) we are, started an echelon across the road to make it easier for the guys at the back, moving in for the very odd car that came our way. We were now climbing although you couldn't notice as the wind was keeping us to pretty much 9 mph everywhere. When we began to go back down the other side we couldn't break 12mph on a 5% gradient! At the bottom, Dec wanted a video of us coming down so we turned around and free wheeled up the hill! Madness!

Dropping down to Leeuan the scenery turned from barren to beautiful. As we stopped for some pictures and Kieran had a quick snooze on the wall, Dec wanted to take the shorter route to Westport down the really busy N59 which would shave 9 miles off. With a cry of "trust in the route!" He was outvoted and we cycled round the amazing beautiful inlet and with us now having the wind behind us for a couple of miles all was well again.Conleth and Kieran even had time to scare a few sheep out of the road ahead as it twisted up and down the side of the waters edge.

We then turned North again and the wind was back. However the unbelievable vista of the "Hidden Valley" was a sight to behold and lots of photos and videos were taken. From an ox bow lake to hanging valleys and waterfalls it had it all and it was completely and utterly deserted. To celebrate being just 15 miles from home, at last the team work began to disintegrate. Coming up to one of the small summits, just as Conleth was getting ready to launch, me and Kieran blocked the narrow single track road so he couldn't get past and Dec powered away to claim victory! Snarling and cursing, Conleth wouldn't get caught be the same trick again and as we approached the only major climb of the day off he went with Dec following in hot pursuit. Unbelievably for the first time in 4 days Conleth blew up and Dec crested what seemed to be the top to claim victory. Or so he thought. While he got out his phone to video us all trailing in his wake, I pointed out the top was still half a mile away and plodded on to the top to claim the real summit, as I pointed out to Declan when he finally got there by the line across the road saying KOM!

A lovely if very windy descent down the other side and it was under 10 miles to go as Dec pulled over for a gel (technically illegal under UCI rules but hey-Ho) and as we spun along he told me that there was no way we would be racing into Westport as 30 seconds later he and Conleth sped up and dissapered! Sticking with Kieran we decided to let them do what they want and we would just spin in. Until of course we got to the junction of the N59 and the fast road into Westport. With trees now on both sides in the road and at last some shelter we had a quick chat and decided we give it a quick go and see how we were feeling. With Kieran in full Jan Ulrich mode we bridged the gap nearly to Conleth as the lights went out for Kieran and he dropped back. I caught up with Conleth and eased past and I could see Dec just up the road. There was only 2 miles to go but I was sure I could catch him until I then realised I'd just passed the sign for Westport! Who puts the town sign 2 miles out of the town centre?! He'd won fair and square this time ( if you disregard the illegal gel......) and we all rolled into Westport absolutely done in and slightly deaf from the wind.

As we hadn't really had anything to eat since the muscles at Maam Cross, we decided that before we found the youth hostel we were staying in tonight a cup of coffee and cake were in order as we sat there waiting for the tingling from the wind to stop. I have had tougher days on a bike, but not many and despite a bit of dicking about at the end we'd made it as easy as we could have by behaving like adults and working as a team. I'm sure there's a lesson to be learned somewhere I think.....!

It's the longest day tomorrow, knocking on for 115 miles and the wind is to be the same. Gulp! We're going to make our own breakfast and try and get on the road for 7.30. Wish us luck!

Day 3 Spanish Point-Cliffs of Moher-Fanore-Galway

Stats: 66.6 miles, 3,159 ft climbing, 2073 calories, 13.4 mph average speed, 5 hours exactly in the saddle.

The shortest day has been and gone and the main race today was not between the 4 of us (although there was a very controversial end to the day's stage!) but with the weather. Having woke up at 7ish Conleth put on breakfast TV to catch the weather and it was apparent that most of the day would be clear and dry but a heavy weather front was arriving in Galway at 4pm bringing some heavy rain. Looking at the miles we had to cover, it seemed very doable so the challenge was set to get to Galway for 4pm.

Down fro breakfast at just before 8, we were all ready for the off around 8.45 despite Declan having to remount his pannier clamp and slowly into the first 10 miles or so to Lahinch. We have been following the brown signs with the blue wavy lines on for most of the way so far signifying the official "Wild Atlantic Way" and the Atlantic Ocean was a constant over our left shoulder for just about all of the day.

Just before the big climb up Moher Hill to the famous Cliffs of Moher the Garmin Sat nav took us off to the right. Although we have had a motto to always "believe in the route" we could see it would catch up to the route round the next big curve at the top of the hill. As usual off went Conleth to wait for us at the top as the groupetto formed between the rest of us to drag ourselves up the 12% gradient. Stopping at the top (or so we thought) to look at the shrine of St Bridget's Well, there was also a very tall monument next to it. Kieran went to have a look and called over " you won't believe what it's called...." We had found O'briens monument! Cue photos of a delighted Dec posed in front of it! Reading the blurb however we found out that it was erected from public subscription for the main landowner of the time Cornelius O'Brien. I knew his socialist principles were a sham......

Re-joining the route we were still climbing and as Conleth dissapered over the horizon again we edged over and past the big visitors centre for the cliffs and mercifully meant an end to the big tourist coaches that had been coming past us for the past 30 minutes. Pulling in at the top at the lay-by where Conleth was waiting the amazing vista of Galway bay and the Isle of Aran was spread out in front of us. The sun had also made a fleeting appearance and we'd asked an Irish motorcyclist to give Dec some tips on how to go round corners properly on a bike, it was down the lovely decsent back to the coast. Coming off the main N67 it was a technical descent into a little village just before Doolin and the decision was made to stop for a coffee and some cake with 20 miles done.

Despite Dec not being over enamoured with his carrot cake, the lemon slices me and Kieran had and the rocky road Conleth tucked away were just the job and we were ready for the climb over the "Burren". Steep straight away and getting steeper Kieran out of nowhere put the hammer down and with Conleth not expecting any competition now, taken by suprise it was man against man at 4mph to the top of the steep part of the climb with me spectating from 400 yards further down the hill as Kieran just edged him out of it! The first real (aside from mine and Declan's sham victories) KOM that Conleth hadn't won! The euphoria didn't last long however as after a short downhill the climb continued even steeper into the distance and Conleth was taking no chances this time!

Waiting at the crossroads at the top the route on the sat nav took us straight on past a sign saying no through road. Dec wanted to turn right and follow the cycle path, but as we all chimed "believe in the route" we ploughed on up the track as it got steadily worse and worse, finally ending at a rock strewn gate. "I am not riding through that" piped Dec only to be outvoted as Conleth opened the gate and set off slowly. Strangely Kieran didn't object as he usually hates anything that's not tarmaced, but as Dec pointed out he was not riding his own bike but Dec's spare one!

5 miles later we were still bumping along the path at around 6mph and the only person we saw was a 90 year old women out walking her sheepdog! How did she get up here? We all asked ourselves just before the path closed in further and we had to get off an walk. As you could imagine the chuntering coming from the back and Dec's direction was now reaching fever pitch, but all of a sudden the road reappeared and we were back on firmer ground. All the way along the top the view had been spectacular, and 3 off us had really enjoyed it! It had put us massively behind time with the last 10 miles being the climb and the bridle way along the top covered in 1 hour 15 minutes.

We decided we'd get back down to the coast road and see if we could find anywhere to have something to eat about 30 miles out. What followed was brilliant as the sun came out as we dipped down into Fanore with only a little more unmade road to go down (Kieran stood in front of the sign while we waited for Dec to come down the hill so he wouldn't realise....) and followed the coast road as it swooped up and down along the coast. Stopping for me to take a video, Dec and Kieran decided to take advantage and upped the pace while I was putting my phone away and zoomed off into the distance. It took me ages to catch-up and just as I did we pulled into Ballyvaughan, found a Spar, and had lunch.

We still had 29 miles to go and it was just after 2pm. We'd be pushing it to get there for 4pm, but we resolved to put our differences behind us and work as a team for the last leg of the stage, with only a small climb to get over near Ballinderren about 12 miles out. And for once we did! Making a tight train we quickly got to the climb and off dashed Conleth. With me at the back and struggling, I had a fantastic view of Kieran hanging onto the back of Declan's rack with his left hand getting a tow up the hill! It did the trick as Kieran closed the gap to Conleth and pipped him over the top to take his second KOM of the day!

Shinanigans over with, it was back to teamwork as we piled through the miles and turned right onto the horribly busy N18, using the hard shoulder as much as we could and Dec taking monster turns on the front as his arse was killing him and he wanted to get to the hotel as quickly as possible! The team work lasted until 3 miles to go when an incline up a head signalled it was time for Conleth to go. As soon as he did Kieran had had enough and with his knee giving him gip, it was left to me and Dec to give chase which we did half heartedly. That was until we rounded a corner and there was Conleth stuck at the red light! Result! With the straight road now into Galway we were altogether, but it was really busy and we were wary of cocking about to much. However a bus lane then materialised out of nowhere giving us a bit of leeway and I made a bid for it with a mile to go. Getting a bit of a lead, the lights changed ahead. Ahhhhhh! I slowed down and as Dec caught up I said " if there is one rule, it's that you can't jump a red light, right?" He said nothing just carried on looked both ways and jumped the red light! Tentatively I followed but it was done and he passed the welcome to Gallway sign to provisionally take the stage win.

By the time we all got the next half mile to the hotel there was a full scale row going on. Using words I won't repeat I was accusing Declan of being a cheating, kiniving, sly so and so, while Conleth was calling us both out on the red light issue claiming we should both be disqualified and he won the stage by rights. With Kieran already at the hotel ( how did that happen?) we decided to ask the commisares for a verdict, as there was none, we asked the hotel receptionist to adjudicate! She proclaimed Conleth the stage winner and disqualified both me and Dec! She must have thought we were stark raving bonkers!

We had also made it for 4pm on the dot and 20 minutes later the heavens opened, so in the end we were all winners.......A quick shower and change and we were out in Gallway braving the rain to have our tea where the discussion raged on. It was finally put to bed when Conleths evening meal arrived looking very much lady a lady's front bottom........

78 miles tomorrow and it looks dry at the moment but the 20 mph headwind we'll be in all day may mean we have to put our differences behind us to get through it.......

Just a quick reminder that although we are "on holiday" we are doing this for a great charity. If your reading the blog and you haven't put your hand in your pocket please go to just giving and search for Chris Glencorse and it'll be there. Cheers!

Day 2 Killarney-Tralee-Kieran's auntie Polly's house-Tarbert-Spanish Point

Day 2 stats: 79 miles, 3,628 ft of climbing, average speed 14.5 mph, time in the saddle 5 hours 27 minutes, calories 2517

What a difference a day makes! Despite some conflicting weather reports about what the afternoon would bring it remained by and large clear, and we even saw that mysterious orange bauble in the sky at some points! Wonders will never cease! It made the day much more enjoyable although the scenery was not really up to yesterday's jaw dropping standards and meant we could concentrate more on race tactics and mental disintegration of the competition in order to make the miles tick by quicker!

Picking up the 2 bags of clean bike kit the receptionist in the hotel had kindly agreed to wash for us late last night at breakfast at 8 ish prompt, the usual cereal/porridge combination was dispatched and there was severe peer pressure put on Kieran to tuck into another full Irish, but with him knowing about the avalanche of food his Aunt Polly would throw at us when we stopped there 30 miles into the day he wisely stuck with only a couple of sausages.

Getting the kit to the rooms it wasn't quite dry so the hotel rooms hand dryer was used to full effect or at least until it's thermal cut out switch rendered it inoperable drying the last of the clothes and both our shoes. Dec wasn't having any such problems with his requisitioned oil radiator as well as the main radiators he'd managed to dry everything out at the expense of his room being like a sauna all night.

Bags packed and bikes retrieved and it was out into the traffic through the centre of Killarney and twice round the main roundabout before we found the right way through town. With a grand total of 0.6 miles done it was time to stop again as Kieran saw a bike shop that was open. Getting the bike mechanic out to look at his bodge on his pannier rack, he was pretty impressed and said it would hold for the next few days and there was nothing else they could do. Taking the opportunity to borrow their track pump to get some air in the tyres and a bit of lube on the chains after yesterday, there was only time to ogle at the bike porn in the shop before getting back on our battered, heavy bikes and finally get underway. It was 10am!

Taking it easy out of Killarney the route took us on the back roads to Tralee avoiding the very busy N22 it was time to ease into it gently before the big climb at Batterfield over the Tralee hills. As he had smashed us all yesterday, once Conleth ambled past it was all over as a race. There was a chink of light however as their was a turning on the left half way up the climb that would take you onto the N70 and as Conleth was the only one without a little Garmin sat nav, he was unsure wether to carry on or turn left. We did discuss giving telling him to turn left instead of going straight on, but decided even if we did he'd catch us before the top. Telling him straight on it was clear he could smell a rat and slowed up, constantly looking over his shoulder to check we wouldn't turn left! Ahh honour among thieves!

At the top a quick drink and a banana and down the hill onto Tralee, but not before Dec's driving Miss Daisy descending in the middle of the road forced us all to slow down behind the van that was stuck behind him! At the bottom it was a left turn and down some single track, including a mile stretch freshly surfaced covered with chippings and into lovely Tralee. With Kieran's aunt Peggy 10 miles or so further on, we decided not to stop but push on out of Tralee to hit the second big climb of the day. Usual service of Conleth disappearing up the road while we hung on together for grim death and 15 minutes later it was nearly over and Conleth pulled over to the side of the road waiting. He had, however made a schoolboy mistake, stopping 100 yards short of the summit. Both my and Dec realised at the same time and the old rivalry was rekindled as we increased our pace to at least 8mph and I got over first, just! Chalk up another hollow victory! With Conleth catching up and complaining vigorously about the unfairness of it, we pulled up so Kieran could phone his aunt to put the tea on.

20 minutes later down a fast R556 we were turning off left down a side lane to find Kieran's aunt Peggy's house which he'd last been to 31 years ago! He'd already warned us about her legendary hospitality and as soon as we were in the door we were ushered to the set table and the feast began! Given we were only 30 miles in we were going to stop for lunch later on in the day, but the tea, home made scones, soda bread, ham, cheese, tomatoes, more team and Madeira cake seemed rude to refuse! An hour later we staggered out like lions who'd eaten a whole antelope, thanked aunt Peggy and her daughter who'd also popped in, taken a few photos and set off at 1.30 with 50 miles to go.

Back on the arrow straight R556 at last we organised ourselves back into a train to combat the strong headwind we were now going into only to disagree about the turn off to Tarbert where we would catch the ferry from. The turn off said 26 km but the route took us past it. Shouting "the route is the route" with reluctance they all followed and we were rolling into Balleybunion and out the other side on the climb up to Astee. As per of buggered Conleth into the distance with us labouring behind. He didn't get as far ahead as usual though and although he got over the top first I piled past him claiming the top was a bit further ahead to wind him up. While I was speeding along, Kieran joined me and sitting behind him while pilling along at 20mph the fun and games started for the intermediate sprint at the ferry terminal, even though it was 18 miles away. I got the jump on KC and for around 5 miles was all by myself until Conleth blasted past and disappeared into the distance. The last I saw of him was a spec in the distance at Ballylongford and then all of sudden Dec came hurtling past only for his rear light to fall off around 10 secs later and smash to tiny pieces in front of me. Using the Top Gear measure of not stopping to help a mechanical I commiserated him on his bad luck ( I didn't really) and took off for a firm second at Tarbert. Pulling into the town I was searching for the sign for the ferry when Kieran came past me at light speed shortly followed by Declan! How have they done that?! We went past the sign saying still 2km to the ferry and despite the mind being willing the legs were weak and Dec sped into the distance panniers wobbling to win a deserved 2 place. Conleth filmed us in and said he'd been there that long he'd Benin over and back on the ferry already.....

On to the ferry, a quick cup of tea, and a glance at the watch and we'd done the last 18 miles in under an hour! We now only had 22 miles left and it was only 3.30 so with a vow to take the next bit easier it was the climb out of the ferry terminal and back down to the coast. Stopping at Creegh for a top up of water bottles and a 4 pack of double deckers there was time for a photo with the Trump hotel sign and on to the last 15 miles to Spanish point.

As with yesterday the positioning for the stage win started at 11 miles to go with Dec stretching the pace a gaining 200 yards. Constantly looking over his shoulder I asked Kieran if he thought he was trying his luck. "Definitely" was his reply. "We're not going to let him get away with this are we" I said and Kieran upped the pace and slowly started reeling him in. It took about 3 miles but sure enough we were close enough for me to jump across to him. When I popped up alongside he admitted he thought it would be Kieran and they would be able to work together to beat me to the finish! With that the cat and mouse carried on for the next 4 miles with both of us unwilling to sit on the front, it getting so bad we had almost braked to a standstill, it was turning into a track race! All this cocking about had let Kieran and Conleth catch up and with 3 miles to go were all together. We all knew that if we left it too late Kieran would always win the sprint so when we found out later that Kieran's brother came past in the car shouting for us to get a move on the phoney war was over and it was balls out for the line! Luckily a steep downhill meant I could use my small stature to carve a lead then closing my eyes for the sharp corner at the bottom at a little village by the sea, Quilty, we were cheered on by Kieran's brother and his family who had stopped by the side of the road, and not looking round powered down the sea front road for the last 1.5 miles until a little punch of the air as I went past the Spanish point sign meant I had won! Greated at the hotel 100 yards later was one of Dec's best friendS Greg, just as Dec came hurtling round the corner closely followed by the other 2 and another day was done! I can honestly say the last 11 miles today was the most I've laughed on a bike!

As it was only 5.30 we quickly checked in and quick shower later it was into the bar for a glass ( half of Guinness over here) and an evening with Conleths brother Kieran, his partner Siobhan and her daughter Hannah and Dec's friend Greg. I'm going to be an adopted Irishmen by the time it's all over!

Only a short 68 miles tomorrow, here's hoping the weather holds.....

Day 1 Goleen-Mizen Head-Caha pass-Molls Gap-Gap of Dunloe-Killarney

Stats: 88.8 miles, 5,300 feet climbing, 6 hours 50 mins in the saddle, 5 of which were spent in the pissing rain, 12.9 mph, 1 sheered pannier bolt....

Well Dec, Kieran and Conleth were telling the truth about why Ireland is so green, it's the constant rain! I don't think I've ever been as wet as I have been for the last 2 hours of today's stage, regularly having to stop to wring my gloves out, and either sitting on the front of the peloton with it in my face or behind one of the others in the rooster tails off there back wheels!

It all started off so promising as at 8am at the dot as arranged with the lovely waitress at the Heron Cove ( they opened up especially early as they usually don't start serving until 9am. Only in Ireland etc, etc!) and as we had ordered last night were soon tucking into 3 bowls of porridge before the cooked breakfast came out. Kieran indulging in the more is more approached had already polished off 4 weetabix and a load of fruit and had ordered the full Irish and as the chef brought out the biggest carb fest known to man it was guffaws all round. He'd never eat all that.....unbelievably 5 mins later it was gone! Table cleared it was out to get the bikes from the shed they'd been locked in and with the minimum of fuss, me and Dec had our panniers fitted and were ready for the off at 9 sharp. However the heavy breakfast had taken it's toll on Kieran as he stripped his room looking for his watch ( it was in his panniers) then proceeded to cock about getting the panniers on his bike.

Just as we were about to set off, down came the rain, so Kieran re-unpacked his panniers to get his rain covers out and fitted and then we were ready to go. At 9.20. Re-tracing the route to Malin Head from yesterday, if somewhat slower with 10kg on the back, it was quickly up the 7 miles to a deserted   Malin Head for a few photos through the mizzle at the start/finish line outside the visitor centre. When I say deserted there was one vehicle in the car park......Gunter's panzer wagon! Much merriment was had when it was suggested that it was a bit like the big truck in Steven Speilburgs film "Duel" and we'd be seeing it round every corner for the next week!

Turning off the route back to the B&B we followed the Atlantic coast for around the next 10 miles, enjoying the views and the fact that the rain had eased off and it was up and onto the first climb of the day. 900m from the top Coleth pulled the pin and I tried to get on his back wheel to get a breather then burst past him nearer the top. It wasn't to be as as soon as I caught him he was off and clear crushing to the top with the rest of us miles behind. It was to become a familiar soul destroying story for the rest off the day....at the top it was time for a few photos of the spectacular views and the first of many toilet stops that day. Those of you familiar with Dec's untrained mongrel urinary habits will be surprised to know it was not Dec, but Conleth then me who would lead this charge. I think it's all the beetroot juice he's drinking!

As the road dipped and rose along the coast mostly on single track roads it was a leasuirly pace, some chatting and gawping at the landscape until we came to a crossroad and turned left onto the N71 and the road to Durrus and Bantry. A bigger road but still quiet, the banter ceased and we organised ourselves into a half competent train to get the 10 miles to Durrus and the first stop of the day at 28 miles. As Conleth sorted out a postcard for his daughter in New York Dec found a shop with a coffee machine and out for the first time came the legendary O'Brien brownies. While we waited for the coffe to cool down to less the temperature of the centre of the sun technophobe Kelly asked me to google his daughters address in New York then take a photo of the postcard so he could remember it....

Packed and ready it was on the climb up out of Durrus that Dec noticed there was something seriously wrong with Kieran's pannier, listing to one side. Pulling over to inspect it, it was clear that the bolt had sheered on the right hand side of the rear stay and there was no way to get the sheered bit out. Oh dear. We were only 30 miles in with another 60 to do. Thinking caps on and it was bodged up with some electrical tape until we could get to Bantry and a bike shop. A very careful 8 miles later and we arrived to be told the only bike shop in Bantry had closed 3 weeks earlier. Spying a hardware shop and with Kieran being an engineer by trade a more perminant bodge was achieved with a bit of pipe clamp, some foam and a lot of swearing. It had however cost us around 40 mins, and with the time touching 1.30 and only 38 miles gone we were well behind schedule and had the 3 big climbs still to come.

A few flattish miles brought us to the bottom of the 7 mile climb up the Caha pass and it had began to proper lash it down. With Dec and KC taking it easy, of went Conleth again with me in pursuit. He'd gone far to early as we still had 5 miles to go to the top so I reeled him back in and slowly eased past him to open up a pretty sizeable lead. Then the lights went out, and I blew up completely as Conleth cruised past to take an easy win, even having the time to come back down the hill to see where we'd got to! Marking the top was a short tunnel blasted into the rock and a bit of relief from the pounding rain before it was brains out for the alpine like descent back down to the valley. It was now 3pm and we hadn't had any dinner so the signs for Molly Gallivans visitors centre was a welcome relief. As we dismounted the in became obvious it was a museum of sorts made out of an old famine house and looked deserted. We eventually found someone and they were still serving soup and cream teas, result! Sitting in the tiny tea room with the sheepskin rugs on the benches tucked over our knees and constant trips to the toilets to use the hand drier to try and dry our clothes we had quite the Chinese laundry going! After nearly an hour though it was time to brave the worst of the Irish summer and with 52 miles gone it was still 37 to go and another 2 climbs, but with the added warm feeling of the tea room not charging us for the soup so we could add it to the charity pot!

The next 10 miles were lovely though, the gradient gentle but all down hill so despite the soaking we were feeling a little better as we bombed through Glengarrif and Kenmare and up to climb at Molls Gap. Given the kicking we'd all taken at Conleths hands all day we let him ride off into the hail and concentrated on getting up the 5 mile climb. Near the top Conleth had pulled over to wait, and sensing his chance, Dec pulled out and despite mine and Conleth's efforts he was first over and through the narrow gap to claim a very hollow victory!

The rain was now even worse and we had a choice to make, either the N71 back to Killarny at 14 miles or the unbelievably tough route up the gap of Dunloe at 22 miles. Even I was tempted, but I'd heard so many things about the beauty of the Black valley that I couldn't justify taking the short route and as would call them out on here if they didn't agree off to the Gap of Dunloe we went!

A very sketchy down hill on a gravel strewn single track road which in some places was more like a river made my heart sing! I was so happy! And the valley was so beautiful. Granted you couldn't see the big vistas because of the mist and rain but even so.......5 miles of descending done and the Gap of Dunloe was upon us. Usually not open to cars and only passable by horse and trap, it was open to a few cars and as soon as the road went up, off went Conleth. There is massive speculation on the exact make up of the homeopathy pills he's been taking, I'll say no more and leave you to make your own minds up.....We wouldn't see him again until the top some 25 minutes later, sheltering under a rock to try and keep himself warm! With all the climbing out the way, it was down the most magnificent road I've ever seen stopping for a few photos and the 10 miles back to Killarney. Having been cheated by Declan of the stage win yesterday, I decided that there would be no messing about tonight so with just over 9 miles to go, on the tightest, nageriest bit of the descent I was off on a Steve Cummings like time trial to the finish. 1 mile later I couldn't see anyone behind me but piled on the pace until the turnoff onto the N72 with 5 miles to go. I was blowing at this stage, but unbeknown to me a"moment" on one of the tight corners had called off the chase and as I passed the Killarny sign, stage to me! A few minutes later a bedraggled bunch rolled into town to find the lodge we were staying at and to finally get dry! Another 80 or so miles tomorrow and a trip to Kieran's auntie for tea and cake on the way having met up with her and another of Kieran's relatives James over tea in the restaurant we went to for tea. I just hope and prey it's not as wet as today.....