Well Dec, Kieran and Conleth were telling the truth about why Ireland is so green, it's the constant rain! I don't think I've ever been as wet as I have been for the last 2 hours of today's stage, regularly having to stop to wring my gloves out, and either sitting on the front of the peloton with it in my face or behind one of the others in the rooster tails off there back wheels!
It all started off so promising as at 8am at the dot as arranged with the lovely waitress at the Heron Cove ( they opened up especially early as they usually don't start serving until 9am. Only in Ireland etc, etc!) and as we had ordered last night were soon tucking into 3 bowls of porridge before the cooked breakfast came out. Kieran indulging in the more is more approached had already polished off 4 weetabix and a load of fruit and had ordered the full Irish and as the chef brought out the biggest carb fest known to man it was guffaws all round. He'd never eat all that.....unbelievably 5 mins later it was gone! Table cleared it was out to get the bikes from the shed they'd been locked in and with the minimum of fuss, me and Dec had our panniers fitted and were ready for the off at 9 sharp. However the heavy breakfast had taken it's toll on Kieran as he stripped his room looking for his watch ( it was in his panniers) then proceeded to cock about getting the panniers on his bike.
Just as we were about to set off, down came the rain, so Kieran re-unpacked his panniers to get his rain covers out and fitted and then we were ready to go. At 9.20. Re-tracing the route to Malin Head from yesterday, if somewhat slower with 10kg on the back, it was quickly up the 7 miles to a deserted Malin Head for a few photos through the mizzle at the start/finish line outside the visitor centre. When I say deserted there was one vehicle in the car park......Gunter's panzer wagon! Much merriment was had when it was suggested that it was a bit like the big truck in Steven Speilburgs film "Duel" and we'd be seeing it round every corner for the next week!
Turning off the route back to the B&B we followed the Atlantic coast for around the next 10 miles, enjoying the views and the fact that the rain had eased off and it was up and onto the first climb of the day. 900m from the top Coleth pulled the pin and I tried to get on his back wheel to get a breather then burst past him nearer the top. It wasn't to be as as soon as I caught him he was off and clear crushing to the top with the rest of us miles behind. It was to become a familiar soul destroying story for the rest off the day....at the top it was time for a few photos of the spectacular views and the first of many toilet stops that day. Those of you familiar with Dec's untrained mongrel urinary habits will be surprised to know it was not Dec, but Conleth then me who would lead this charge. I think it's all the beetroot juice he's drinking!
As the road dipped and rose along the coast mostly on single track roads it was a leasuirly pace, some chatting and gawping at the landscape until we came to a crossroad and turned left onto the N71 and the road to Durrus and Bantry. A bigger road but still quiet, the banter ceased and we organised ourselves into a half competent train to get the 10 miles to Durrus and the first stop of the day at 28 miles. As Conleth sorted out a postcard for his daughter in New York Dec found a shop with a coffee machine and out for the first time came the legendary O'Brien brownies. While we waited for the coffe to cool down to less the temperature of the centre of the sun technophobe Kelly asked me to google his daughters address in New York then take a photo of the postcard so he could remember it....
Packed and ready it was on the climb up out of Durrus that Dec noticed there was something seriously wrong with Kieran's pannier, listing to one side. Pulling over to inspect it, it was clear that the bolt had sheered on the right hand side of the rear stay and there was no way to get the sheered bit out. Oh dear. We were only 30 miles in with another 60 to do. Thinking caps on and it was bodged up with some electrical tape until we could get to Bantry and a bike shop. A very careful 8 miles later and we arrived to be told the only bike shop in Bantry had closed 3 weeks earlier. Spying a hardware shop and with Kieran being an engineer by trade a more perminant bodge was achieved with a bit of pipe clamp, some foam and a lot of swearing. It had however cost us around 40 mins, and with the time touching 1.30 and only 38 miles gone we were well behind schedule and had the 3 big climbs still to come.
A few flattish miles brought us to the bottom of the 7 mile climb up the Caha pass and it had began to proper lash it down. With Dec and KC taking it easy, of went Conleth again with me in pursuit. He'd gone far to early as we still had 5 miles to go to the top so I reeled him back in and slowly eased past him to open up a pretty sizeable lead. Then the lights went out, and I blew up completely as Conleth cruised past to take an easy win, even having the time to come back down the hill to see where we'd got to! Marking the top was a short tunnel blasted into the rock and a bit of relief from the pounding rain before it was brains out for the alpine like descent back down to the valley. It was now 3pm and we hadn't had any dinner so the signs for Molly Gallivans visitors centre was a welcome relief. As we dismounted the in became obvious it was a museum of sorts made out of an old famine house and looked deserted. We eventually found someone and they were still serving soup and cream teas, result! Sitting in the tiny tea room with the sheepskin rugs on the benches tucked over our knees and constant trips to the toilets to use the hand drier to try and dry our clothes we had quite the Chinese laundry going! After nearly an hour though it was time to brave the worst of the Irish summer and with 52 miles gone it was still 37 to go and another 2 climbs, but with the added warm feeling of the tea room not charging us for the soup so we could add it to the charity pot!
The next 10 miles were lovely though, the gradient gentle but all down hill so despite the soaking we were feeling a little better as we bombed through Glengarrif and Kenmare and up to climb at Molls Gap. Given the kicking we'd all taken at Conleths hands all day we let him ride off into the hail and concentrated on getting up the 5 mile climb. Near the top Conleth had pulled over to wait, and sensing his chance, Dec pulled out and despite mine and Conleth's efforts he was first over and through the narrow gap to claim a very hollow victory!
The rain was now even worse and we had a choice to make, either the N71 back to Killarny at 14 miles or the unbelievably tough route up the gap of Dunloe at 22 miles. Even I was tempted, but I'd heard so many things about the beauty of the Black valley that I couldn't justify taking the short route and as would call them out on here if they didn't agree off to the Gap of Dunloe we went!
A very sketchy down hill on a gravel strewn single track road which in some places was more like a river made my heart sing! I was so happy! And the valley was so beautiful. Granted you couldn't see the big vistas because of the mist and rain but even so.......5 miles of descending done and the Gap of Dunloe was upon us. Usually not open to cars and only passable by horse and trap, it was open to a few cars and as soon as the road went up, off went Conleth. There is massive speculation on the exact make up of the homeopathy pills he's been taking, I'll say no more and leave you to make your own minds up.....We wouldn't see him again until the top some 25 minutes later, sheltering under a rock to try and keep himself warm! With all the climbing out the way, it was down the most magnificent road I've ever seen stopping for a few photos and the 10 miles back to Killarney. Having been cheated by Declan of the stage win yesterday, I decided that there would be no messing about tonight so with just over 9 miles to go, on the tightest, nageriest bit of the descent I was off on a Steve Cummings like time trial to the finish. 1 mile later I couldn't see anyone behind me but piled on the pace until the turnoff onto the N72 with 5 miles to go. I was blowing at this stage, but unbeknown to me a"moment" on one of the tight corners had called off the chase and as I passed the Killarny sign, stage to me! A few minutes later a bedraggled bunch rolled into town to find the lodge we were staying at and to finally get dry! Another 80 or so miles tomorrow and a trip to Kieran's auntie for tea and cake on the way having met up with her and another of Kieran's relatives James over tea in the restaurant we went to for tea. I just hope and prey it's not as wet as today.....
Good Going boys looks very fun especially that tunnel!!
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